Each Chef Should Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.